Growth Requirements
General
Bidens mauiensis has a number of desirable horticultural characteristics. One, it is probably the most drought-tolerant of all the native Hawaiian Bidens, making it a great choice for a xeriscape garden. Two, it can tolerate salt spray (since it often grows within a stone’s throw of the ocean), making it a good pick for a native Hawaiian coastal garden (although I don’t know how well it grows in sand). Three, it ‘likes’ to grow in very rocky areas, making it an excellent addition to a rock garden. (No one seems to know why B. mauiensis is typically seen in very rocky sites. It may be it has specific adaptations for this type of substrate, or it may be that it’s just not a very good competitor with other plants in other soil types.) Four, it is small, making it the perfect choice as a container plant.
Wild Bidens mauiensis grow in dry rocky coastal (and moderately inland) habitats, which means they have adapted to sunny, windy, and xeric conditions. Keep this in mind when placing and caring for your ko‘oko‘olau. Select a site that receives full sunlight for all or most of the day. Once established (after a few weeks), water your B. mauiensis only enough to keep the underlying soil or media moist; keep the surface soil or media dry most of the time. Make certain the soil or media surrounding the roots of your B. mauiensis easily drains away any excess water. For potted B. mauiensis, do this by making cinders a significant portion (i.e., at least 50%) of the media mix; I (Koebele) normally used mixes of about 75% black cinders. I have only used black cinders (along with some perlite) to improve the drainage of my media mixes and, therefore, cannot comment on whether or not coral rubble or sand would work equally well. Obviously, this ko‘oko‘olau is quite tolerant of salt spray.
Unfortunately, it has been my experience that cultivated Bidens mauiensis (in pots) only live two to three years. Typically, within the first year, my ko‘oko‘olau would flower for the first time and, thereafter, would flower sporadically year-round. All my potted B. mauiensis received an application of granular controlled-release fertilizer every six months, which I can only guess was helpful since I've never grown this species without fertilization.
Because cultivated ko‘oko‘olau are typically short-lived, you will need to replace them every few years if you wish to keep them long-term. The easiest way to do this is by rooting stem cuttings of your existing plant; B. mauiensis cuttings typically root easily. However, propagating ko‘oko‘olau from cuttings doesn't entirely "set back the clock" on these short-lived perennials, and these cloned plants sometimes lack the vigor of ko‘oko‘olau propagated from seeds. Also, unlike seeds, you cannot easily store a hundred ko‘oko‘olau clones in your refrigerator.
Propagating ko‘oko‘olau from seed comes with its own set of problems. The first is the unusual breeding system of many Hawaiian Bidens (see Description above). However, according to Wagner et al. [1990], Bidens mauiensis may be one of the endemic Hawaiian Bidens that only produces flower heads with perfect (bisexual) inner disk florets (i.e., no female plants), which makes collecting seeds a bit easier since you potentially only need to keep one plant in order to get viable seeds (although keeping two or more genetically different plants so they can cross-pollinate would obviously be better).
The second problem is that Bidens mauiensis can successfully hybridize with other native Bidens species [Ganders & Nagata 1984; Plants of Hawaii]. This makes collecting seeds of known genetic identity a challenge. Fortunately, a study by Knope et al. [2013] showed that B. mauiensis cannot be successfully pollinated by the introduced, naturalized, and common B. pilosa and B. alba. Unfortunately, Knope et al. [2013] did not test the other two introduced and naturalized Bidens species, B. cynapiifolia (found on all the main Hawaiian Islands except Ni‘ihau and Kaho‘olawe) and B. gardneri (currently found on Moloka‘i) [Flora of the Hawaiian Islands]. Therefore, before your ko‘oko‘olau dies, you need to decide if you are a purist and want to ensure the genetic identity of any seeds you collect or if you are okay with the possibility that the seeds you collect will have hybrid genetics (most likely native x native; much less likely alien x native). Of course, if you are only growing B. mauiensis and there are no other native or alien Bidens in your landscape or nearby — honeybees typically fly one to two miles from their hive — the chances that your B. mauiensis is producing genetically-pure seeds are more likely. However, the only way to be absolutely sure about the genetics is to bag any young flower heads you plan to collect cypselae from before they open and then pollinate them by hand. Past research [Ganders & Nagata 1984] has shown that hand-pollinating between flowers results in more viable seeds than hand-pollinating within flowers (i.e., self-pollination). Refer to Pritchardia martii for other details on how to collect genetically-certain seeds.
Pests and Diseases
Ko‘oko‘olau in general are attacked by spider mites (most common), aphids, lace bugs, mealybugs, scale insects, and spittlebugs. Snails and slugs can also sometimes become a problem. Ko‘oko‘olau are also prone to powdery mildew infections; look for white patches on the leaves. The Bidens mauiensis I (Koebele) have grown remained relatively pest- and disease-free except for spider mites. However, I have only grown this species in pots within a shadehouse. Therefore, if planted in the ground, you should keep a watchful eye for the other above-mentioned pests, particularly snails and slugs. Refer to the Pests & Diseases page for methods to control all the above-mentioned pests and diseases.
The small leaves of Bidens mauiensis make it a poor choice to grow for tea. However, if you still intend to harvest leaves, be sure you have not used any systemic or otherwise long-lasting pesticides or fungicides in the past that could potentially still be present in or on the leaves. Rather, use only short-term and less toxic chemicals like insecticidal soap and baking soda, and be sure to wash the leaves before making your tea.