Growth Requirements
General
While it's possible to grow this little ʻakoko inland as an accent in a native Hawaiian coastal or rock garden, it will face fewer threats if you keep it as a container plant. Euphorbia degeneri grows too sparsely to be used as an effective weed-controlling groundcover.
Fill your container with crushed coral (mostly at the bottom) and sand. Alternatively, you can fill the container with black cinders. Place the container with your ʻakoko in a site that receives full sunlight for all or most of the day.
Water your ʻakoko minimally; around once or twice a week is more than enough for this xeric plant. Do not overwater.
Euphorbia degeneri grows at a moderate pace, and you should have a plant 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) wide in about a year. Fortunately, this little ʻakoko begins flowering early, perhaps as soon as three months in its container. If your plant seems to stop growing or never flowers, you can try using a foliar organic or inorganic fertilizer at ⅓ or ¼ the recommended strength. And, if you are interested in collecting the tiny seeds to grow more plants, look for and harvest any ripe capsules in the morning. Ripe capsules will straighten from their downward-curved position and become upright shortly before they explode to disperse the tiny seeds inside.
If your ʻakoko begins to overflow the container, it's okay to hand-prune some of its branches. However, do this slowly, a few branches every couple of weeks, and take care not to get covered with the milky sap exuding from the cuts; Euphorbia sap can cause skin irritation. You can also try growing new plants from the cuttings; however, this is more difficult than growing them from seeds.
I (Koebele) haven't yet figured out why some ʻakoko have all green leaves while others have a mixture of red and green. It's true that if you damage a leaf (try squeezing one really hard), it will turn from green to red. However, I have often seen wild and cultivated ʻakoko with red leaves and no signs of leaf damage. Perhaps it's just genetics, like in the case of color variations in some other plants (e.g., ʻākulikuli (Sesuvium portulacastrum)), or it's a mix of genetics and environmental conditions; an interesting project for a graduate student wanting to work on native Hawaiian plants. If you're interested in learning more, here's an online article by Nathan Taylor to get you started: Euphorbia leaf colors and patterns.
Pests and Diseases
ʻAkoko is occasionally attacked by mealybugs, scale insects, spider mites, and whiteflies. However, this is rare, and, in the case of mature plants, the pests often disappear over time, probably due to natural predators such as ladybird beetles or leaf shedding. ʻAkoko's milky sap may also deter many pests. Refer to the Pests & Diseases page for ways to deal with each of these pests. Persistent infestations are more likely if you have placed your ‘akoko in an unnatural environment, such as a heavily-shaded or windless site; consider moving your plant to a sunnier and windier location rather than resorting to continued chemical treatments.
Another ʻakoko pest is the giant African snail (Lissachatina fulica), which will come out of its hiding place at night and girdle the stems or eat the leaves of ‘akoko; girdled stems eventually die. If this happens, first try to solve the problem by moving your ʻakoko to a safer location. Also, closely inspect your container to make sure the snail(s) are not living inside. Refer to the Pests & Diseases page for other ways to deal with snails.