Growth Requirements
General
Dr. Orville C. Baldos and his team at the University of Hawai‘i at Mānoa, particularly his student, Aleta K. Corpuz (check out her MS defense video), have researched the propagation and best growing conditions for Peperomia sandwicensis (and some other native Hawaiian Peperomia). Therefore, some of the information below comes from their investigation along with our own observations.
ʻAlaʻala wai nui kāne is best grown as a container plant, preferably indoors, because of the threat posed by alien snails and slugs that will eagerly consume it. If kept outdoors, a hanging basket or other types of defenses like copper barriers deserve serious consideration.
Peperomia sandwicensis will survive and grow at quite low light levels, even lower than those needed by its sister species, P. leptostachya. If indoors, place your ʻalaʻala wai nui kāne under an LED lamp or next to a window that receives bright but indirect sunlight; Corpuz found that P. sandwicensis can survive and grow under standard LED office lights for at least six months. Outdoors, place your ʻalaʻala wai nui kāne in a site with similar light levels, bright but indirect or shaded sunlight; do not expose your plant to direct sunlight.
For our ʻalaʻala wai nui kāne, we typically used a mix of peat moss and black cinder with cinder making up at least 50% of the mix. This provides excellent water drainage and discourages stem or root rot. Baldos' team used either a 1:1 mix of coconut coir and cinder or a 1:1 mix of calcined clay and fine orchid bark for their P. sandwicensis. When watering your plant, allow the media (or soil) to become surface dry between waterings and avoid any standing water in the pot's saucer. If your plant is indoors, occasionally clean your plant by misting it with distilled water or rainwater to mimic the rainwater-washing it would normally experience outside.
Peperomia sandwicensis grows at a slow to moderate pace, typically slower than P. leptostachya, with the cultivar ‘Ekahanui’ growing larger than ‘Palikea.’ Baldos encourages regular pinching off (i.e., pruning) of the stem tips of both cultivars to promote branching and/or improve appearance, particularly for ‘Ekahanui’ which seems to be more lanky than ‘Palikea.’ Additionally, to sustain or promote growth, apply a balanced controlled-release fertilizer every 6 to 12 months, or feed your ʻalaʻala wai nui kāne with an organic or inorganic foliar fertilizer at ⅓ to ½ the recommended strength every couple of months. However, avoid overfertilizing since this will result in abnormal growth. Since P. sandwicensis is a small plant, for a larger or fuller display, Baldos suggests planting two or three plants in a single pot.
Peperomia sandwicensis will occasionally develop small plantlets near the tips of its flower spikes which can be used to propagate new plants. Additionally, it's not uncommon to see seedlings pop up in nearby pots. Lastly, P. sandwicensis can be propagated from either cut stems (easy) or individual leaves (a bit harder).
Pests and Diseases
If kept as a houseplant, you'll likely have few pest problems with your ‘ala‘ala wai nui kāne. However, outside, keep a wary eye for snail or slug damage. Keeping the plant in a container off the ground — or, better yet, in a hanging basket — will make it harder to find by these herbivores. If you decide to plant your ‘ala‘ala wai nui kāne in the ground or on a rock and the snails or slugs go after it, install barriers (copper or otherwise) around the plant, use traps, or resort to snail and slug bait poisons (see our Pests & Diseases page for a fuller discussion about what to do about snails and slugs).
ʻAlaʻala wai nui kāne are infrequently attacked by mealybugs (particularly root mealybugs), scale insects, and thrips. Refer to the Pests & Diseases page for treatments to control these pests.
Bacterial or fungal rot can be a problem if you overwater — so don't. Additionally, make sure the media in the pot or the soil at the site where your ‘ala‘ala wai nui kāne is planted drains extremely well. If you start to lose a plant because of rot, quickly take one or two cuttings from a still healthy stem and attempt to root them in new clean media (i.e., perlite, cinders, vermiculite) in order to have a replacement plant.