Types of fertilizers we like
Prior to human colonization, all the Hawaiian Islands were populated by millions of seabirds. Today, these large populations are almost entirely restricted to the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands and offshore islets of the main Hawaiian Islands, with a few exceptions like Kīlauea Point, Kaua‘i, and Ka‘ena Point, O‘ahu. Many botanists believe the droppings from these seabirds, combined with those of the native Hawaiian forest birds, which were much more numerous in the past, resulted in a constant and significant transport of plant nutrients (e.g., nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus) from the ocean to the land. Additionally, the newly-formed basalt (e.g., lava, cinder) that makes up the primary substrate of the Islands, particularly the newer islands like Maui and Hawai‘i, also contains important plant nutrients like iron and magnesium.
Today, things are quite different. Both the seabirds and native forest birds are largely gone, and with them, the transport of plant nutrients into the interior of the main Hawaiian Islands. Thus, we, as native Hawaiian plant enthusiasts, have an important horticultural question: "How critical was/is this nutrient flow to the growth and ecology of native Hawaiian plants?" We don't think there is a definitive answer yet to this question. Therefore, the use of fertilizers with native Hawaiian plants will be a case-by-case experiment for us all for some time to come. With this said, here is what we know and have learned about fertilizing native Hawaiian plants.
Native Hawaiian plants require nutrients like any other plant. Attention is especially needed for plants grown in containers as their final home (e.g., Brighamia spp.). Containers may also be used as temporary homes for plants until they attain the size needed to plant them out at a permanent site (in a garden or landscape) and will, therefore, require nutrients while in the container. Once planted in the ground, new plantings may initially benefit from fertilization, but often require little, if any, additional fertilizers once established. This is because the fallen leaves, flowers, fruits, twigs, and branches decompose to form a natural mulch and recycled fertilizer if left on the ground. The problem arises when these natural materials are gathered and removed, usually for aesthetic reasons. See Soils & Media under Native Soils and the benefits of using them.
A balanced fertilizer contains the three primary elements, nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), as well as other macronutrients and micronutrients essential for a plant's health and vigor. Fertilizer also provides microorganisms in the soil or media with the chemicals they need. Together, the result is healthy and vigorous plants with vibrant foliage, strong roots, colorful flowers, and well-developed fruits.
Macronutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, sulfur, and magnesium are the essential elements needed in large quantities for fundamental processes such as building cells and proteins, energy transfer, and regulating water balance. They also play key roles in chlorophyll structure, photosynthesis, enzyme activation, and the development of roots, shoots, flowers, and fruits. In contrast, micronutrients such as manganese, boron, chlorine, iron, zinc, copper, and molybdenum are essential elements needed in smaller quantities. They are essential for enzyme activation, photosynthesis and respiration, other metabolic processes like amino acid synthesis, and overall growth and development.
There are two general types of fertilizers to consider using for native Hawaiian plants, organic and inorganic, with each type having specific characteristics and applications.
Organic: Unfortunately, in recent times, the term "organic" has become ill-defined and misused. (In science, "organic" is defined as any carbon-based chemical that originated from a living organism.) Here, we define "organic fertilizers" as those fertilizers derived from (once) living organisms.
Inorganic: In science, "inorganic" is defined as any chemical that originated from a non-living (i.e., non-organism) source; they are typically made synthetically or are geologically extracted (e.g., iron ore from a mine). "Inorganic fertilizers" are typically small molecules like magnesium sulfate that contain elements important for plant growth.
There are several organic fertilizers commonly available from garden shops or online. Here are the types we have used:
Kelp extract (emulsions or fertilizer). Besides nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, kelp extract provides trace elements like iron, manganese, zinc, and magnesium — all crucial for various plant functions. Kelp extract improves root growth, nutrient uptake, and foliar and fruit development. It also helps with environmental stresses (drought, heat) and disease resistance, and hastens seed germination. It is available in liquids, granules, and powder. After using kelp extract for many years for container plants (foliar fed twice a month), it's become a personal (Eickhoff) favorite.
Fish extract (emulsions or fertilizer) is rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, trace elements, and amino acids. It improves root development, soil structure, and aeration by adding organic matter and promoting beneficial microbial activity, and helps plants cope with environmental stresses (e.g., drought, salinity, temperature fluctuations). Though a great natural source of nutrients, the fishy odor should be considered; we only use fish extract when kelp extract is unavailable. Also, be aware that unwanted cats are attracted to the smell of fish extract.
Compost is a natural product of decomposed nutrient-rich organic matter, such as food scraps and yard waste. It improves soil structure, enhances nutrient availability, and reduces the need for other fertilizers and pesticides. It also helps the soil retain moisture, prevents soil erosion, and can suppress plant diseases. Composting uses a wide range of organic materials like grass clippings, leaves, food scraps (fruit and vegetable peels, eggshells, coffee grounds), and even some types of paper and cardboard. The finished product is an inexpensive way to add essential nutrients required by plants. In their habitat, plants naturally produce compost from the accumulation of fallen leaves, flowers, fruits, twigs, and bark. We prefer to use compost for native Hawaiian plants planted in the ground because it is a slow, controlled-release fertilizer.
Green manure. Also called "cover crops," green manure provides numerous benefits for plants by increasing soil nutrients and structure, and suppressing weeds. These are plant species specifically grown to be incorporated back into the soil, often because of their nitrogen-fixing ability, as well as their capacity to enrich the soil with organic matter and improve its structure. They are often used in areas devoid of nutrients and are a great first step to bring soil back to a more natural state.
Bone meal is a beneficial soil amendment for plants, primarily due to its high phosphorus and calcium content, which promotes strong root development, flowering, and fruiting. It also contains some nitrogen and trace elements, and acts as a controlled-release fertilizer, providing nutrients over an extended period. Nowadays, despite its benefits, we rarely use bone meal. However, there are unique benefits to using bone meal for native plants in the Pea family (Fabaceae). Calcium plays a crucial role in the interaction between nitrogen-fixing bacteria (Rhizobia) and legumes, from the early stages of symbiosis formation to the creation of root nodules. The calcium helps these bacteria colonize the plant's root hairs and form the infection threads necessary for nodule development.
Vermicompost (worm castings) is a natural form of fertilizer made from worm castings. It enhances plant growth, improves soil structure, increases nutrient availability, and promotes faster seed germination, stronger root development, and higher yields of fruits and vegetables. Vermicompost also helps suppress plant diseases and pests. Like bone meal, this is another fertilizer we do not use as much today as we did in the past. It should be noted that earthworms are not native to the Hawaiian Islands and are considered an invasive species that has negatively altered forest floor structure.
There are some "organic" inorganic fertilizers available at garden shops or online that are not technically organic but are often used by organic farmers and horticulturists. Here are the types we have used:
Epsom salt or magnesium sulfate (MgSO4). Do not let the word "salt" lead you to believe that this is like sodium chloride (NaCl), a chemical that can be toxic to many plants. Not at all! Epsom salt provides plants with magnesium, which is essential for chlorophyll production and photosynthesis, leading to healthier, greener growth and stronger cell structures. It also aids in nutrient uptake, improves seed germination, helps with transplant shock, and can lead to more vibrant flowers and flavorful fruits. However, moderation is key, as excessive use can cause harm by disrupting the nutrient balance. Therefore, check the fertilizers you use to make sure you are not applying too much magnesium. Epsom salt is not "organic" in the scientific sense, as it's a naturally occurring mineral, not a living organism or a product of one; technically, it's classified as an inorganic substance. However, it is considered "organic" by some because it is naturally derived (i.e., not synthesized) and, therefore, considered safe for use in organic growing practices, unlike synthetically-made chemicals. Epsom salt can be applied to the base of plants or as a foliar spray on the leaves, like other fertilizers. Magnesium is crucial for nitrogen-fixing plants, such as koa, koai‘a, ‘āwikiwiki, wiliwili, uhiuhi, ‘ohai, and other members of the Fabaceae (Pea family). However, make certain the Epsom salt you use does not contain any additives such as scents or colors that may harm or even kill plants.
MaxSea® is a water-soluble seaweed-based fertilizer known for its effectiveness on various plants, particularly carnivorous species. It cannot be considered completely organic because it is a blend of seaweed, trace elements, other selected organics, and inorganic compounds. It is known for being gentle on plants, safe for the environment, easy to use, and having a pleasant scent. I (Eickhoff) prefer to use MaxSea® mostly for seedlings and sensitive plants at half the recommended label amount. It is great for foliar applications since it does not burn.
There are several inorganic fertilizers commonly available from garden shops or online. Because they are synthetic (i.e., man-made), these fertilizers can sometimes lack important macro- and micronutrients or have macronutrient mixtures that are inadequate or even possibly harmful to some plant species (e.g., high nitrogen fertilizers used on carnivorous plants). Here are the types we have used:
Miracle-Gro® is a water-soluble synthetic fertilizer that allows for quick and efficient nutrient delivery to the plant. It contains a mix of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (e.g., 24-8-16; NPK), along with other essential macro- and micronutrients like boron, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, and zinc. While generally safe, overuse can lead to nutrient burning or toxicity in plants and soil/media microbe imbalances. The Scotts Company makes different formulations of Miracle-Gro® for different types of plants. For example, Miracid® (30-10-10) can be used for acid-loving native plants such as nāʻū (see Gardenia brighamii under Growth Requirements; General). Miracle-Gro® also offers a line of organic fertilizers made from plant-based ingredients.
Schultz® makes a variety of water-soluble synthetic fertilizers, including a liquid concentrate, Schultz® All Purpose 10-15-10 Plant Food Plus, that one of us (Koebele) currently uses for indoor plants (see The Magic of LEDs page). This concentrate is easy to use (Just add 7 drops per quart of water every time you water.), and, because it is greatly diluted, doesn't shock the plants when applied. (You also don't have to try to remember or keep a record of the last time you applied a fertilizer.) In addition to the 10-15-10 balance of the three primary nutrients, nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, it also contains the micronutrients iron, magnesium, and zinc.
Controlled-release fertilizers (Osmocote® & Gaviota®) are water-soluble synthetic fertilizer granules coated with a biodegradable semi-permeable resin. Placed on or in the media or soil, water penetrates the coating and gradually dissolves the macro- and micronutrients, which then move out (by osmosis) and into the surrounding media or soil. Since this process is gradual, these fertilizers can provide nutrients to a plant for an extended period, typically months. Like other synthesized fertilizers, controlled-release fertilizers are produced in a variety of formulations designed for different types of plants or desired outcomes (e.g., more flowers). For our native Hawaiian plants, we have most often used standard outdoor & indoor formulations (e.g., Osmocote® Plus; 15-9-12).
Speaking generally for most native Hawaiian plants, we have found that most store-bought fertilizers should not be applied at the label's recommended full-strength, even if you don't see any adverse effects such as leaf or root burn, for two reasons:
It's our observation that most native Hawaiian plants are just not heavy feeders. Excess nutrients will either not be absorbed by the native plants or be utilized by the surrounding weeds. Therefore, full-strength applications just waste money and add to the work of removing weeds.
While some native plants may be able to handle full-strength applications, they often end up producing large, atypical, floppy leaves (e.g., Abutilon spp.) because of the excess nitrogen or an overabundance of flowers and fruits because of the excess phosphorus (e.g., Eugenia koolauensis). This abnormal leaf, flower, and fruit growth can attract pests and leave the native plant less able to tolerate stresses such as drought.
In conclusion, less — not more — is usually best. We suggest providing your native Hawaiian plants with frequent but small doses of nutrients, perhaps at ¼ to ½ the label's recommended strength. As time goes by, you will naturally get to know your plants better and discover how to best apply fertilizers, just as you learn how to best water and light your plants. Also, we suggest foliar feeding (rather than always applying fertilizer to the soil or media) since this more closely mimics the ancient means that Hawai‘i's native birds (and bats) once supplied nutrients to our native flora.