Growth Requirements
General
There are a few cultivars of Hibiscus arnottianus commercially available because of their hardiness, abundance of flowers, or particular flower form, with subsp. arnottianus and immaculatus being the most commonly seen subspecies in cultivation. About half of our experiences growing H. arnottianus are with these cultivated varieties.
Like other hibiscus, Hibiscus arnottianus is a versatile plant for landscaping and can be used as an accent, to create a hedge or screen, or to provide shade. It can also be kept as a container plant. While we like to describe kokiʻo keʻokeʻo as "a shrub that wants to become a tree," this doesn't mean you have to let it become one. Kokiʻo keʻokeʻo tolerates gradual pruning, a few branches at a time, quite well, allowing you to shape the plant into the form you want. If you desire a bushy shrub, concentrate your pruning on removing or shortening the central, most vertical branches. If, instead, you want your kokiʻo keʻokeʻo to become a tree as quickly as possible, prune away the lower side branches, and, over time, work your way up. Kokiʻo keʻokeʻo grows fast, but not super fast. Therefore, if you decide to make/let your kokiʻo keʻokeʻo become a tree, understand that you're engaging in a decade(s) long project. Obviously, any dead or diseased branches should also be consistently removed.
Hibiscus arnottianus does best in a site with a lot of sunshine. However, it will grow in partially or lightly shaded sites but may produce fewer flowers. Subspecies punaluuensis seems to be the most shade-tolerant and may even grow better in the shade when planted in a hot dry location. Koki‘o ke‘oke‘o grows best in lava/cinder, clay, or organic-dominant soils, provided the soil drains well.
How much you need to water your koki‘o ke‘oke‘o will depend primarily on where it originally came from and where you plant it. A koki‘o ke‘oke‘o from the dry forests of the Wai‘anae Mountains will require less watering than a plant originating from Mānoa in the Ko‘olau Mountains. Similarly, koki‘o ke‘oke‘o planted in a hot dry lowland site will likely require weekly watering, while the same plant in a cooler upland landscape may only need to be watered once a month or less. (Obviously, a container plant will require more frequent regular watering.) If you don’t know your plant’s origin, you’ll have to experiment and observe the plant until you discover its needs. Fortunately, all koki‘o ke‘oke‘o can tolerate slight to moderate drought, providing you with enough time for your plant to "tell" you, with wilted or dropped leaves, that it needs more water.
With lots of sunlight and adequate water, koki‘o ke‘oke‘o grows quickly, reaching three or more feet (1 m) tall in a year. Most commercially available koki‘o ke‘oke‘o are propagated from cuttings, so flowers often appear soon after planting, even when the plant is small. If you have grown your koki‘o ke‘oke‘o from seed, you’ll have to wait 2 to 3 years for the first flowers. If you see leaf yellowing or your koki‘o ke‘oke‘o doesn't seem to grow despite adequate sun and water, consider applying a single-digit major nutrients fertilizer with minor elements.
Most available Hibiscus arnottianus are propagated from cuttings to ensure genetic identity (i.e., it is a clone of the parent plant). These plants never develop an anchoring taproot, typical of a koki‘o ke‘oke‘o grown from seed, and this can be a problem during a wind and/or rainstorm because the secondary roots cannot prevent the shrub from toppling over. To prevent this from happening, select a planting site that's protected from strong winds and regularly hand-prune your koki‘o ke‘oke‘o to prevent it from becoming top-heavy. If your shrub still falls over, assess the damage, remove any damaged branches, and decide on whether to let the plant recover as is or reposition and support it with stakes and ties. Generally, if many of the roots have been uprooted and exposed, it's best to reposition, reroot, and support the shrub; if not, leave the plant as is unless you find it too unsightly.
Hibiscus arnottianus easily and frequently cross-pollinates with other hibiscus near it, producing hybrid seeds. Therefore, it's safest to only create new plants by rooting stem cuttings. If you still decide to collect seeds from your koki‘o ke‘oke‘o to grow new plants, you should hand-pollinate bagged flowers. Do this by enclosing the flower in a paper bag before it blooms. When the flower blooms, open the bag and hand-pollinate it with some pollen, preferably from a different flower on a different plant of the same subspecies. Re-close the bag around the flower, wait a week, and then remove the bag.
Pests and Diseases
Chinese rose beetles and grasshoppers sometimes get a taste for koki‘o ke‘oke‘o leaves. Additionally, plants are occasionally attacked, usually at or near the stem-tips, by all the usual sap-sucking insects: aphids, mealybugs, scale insects, and whiteflies. However, koki‘o ke‘oke‘o is a resilient plant, and attacks by these pests are almost never fatal. We normally wait for natural predators like ladybird beetles, lacewings, and mealybug destroyers to find and eliminate these pests. However, if the infestation doesn’t disappear on its own, or you just don’t want to wait, refer to the Pests & Diseases page for ways to deal with each of the above-mentioned pests.
The hibiscus erineum mite or hibiscus leaf-crumpling mite (Aceria hibisci) seems to prefer the Chinese hibiscus over native species (Thank goodness!). If you find this type of damage (i.e., leaves with pimples or other twisted distortions; see Hibiscus clayi for photographs of damage) on your koki‘o ke‘oke‘o, remove and discard the affected leaves or branches. If the problem persists, you can first try several sprayings of horticultural oil (about a week apart) before resorting to commercially available miticides. Miticides are tricky. Some are only available to licensed pest exterminators. Check out your local garden shop, and ask them what’s available to you for combating the erineum mite. Be sure to read and follow the label directions since miticides are often only effective if the application protocol is followed exactly.
Koki‘o ke‘oke‘o are occasionally infected by bacterial leaf spot (Pseudomonas spp.); see Nelson [2011] for description and photographs. If you see these lesions on your plant, remove all the affected leaves and reduce your watering schedule. In particular, avoid getting the leaves wet when watering (e.g., turn off the sprinklers and water by hand), which will spread the disease to healthy leaves. Alter your fertilizing schedule, increase or decrease, to see if this helps eliminate the disease. If possible, move or alter the immediate environment around your koki‘o ke‘oke‘o to provide it with more sunlight and wind (i.e., make the site drier). While there are bactericides to combat leaf spot, these are not always effective and modifying the plant's environment is a safer long-term solution.