Growth Requirements
General
Pipturus albidus does best in a lightly shaded site such as beneath a medium to large tree that permits some sunlight through its leaves. However, most forms will also survive in full sunlight; smaller leaf and red-veined forms seem to adapt best. Plant māmaki three to six feet (1 to 2 m) apart to create an informal (i.e., minimally pruned) hedge or screen. Māmaki can also be kept in a container but will become stunted if not sequentially transferred to a larger and larger pot.
Māmaki is generally not suited to hot and dry or coastal sites, since it is intolerant of drought and salt spray. If planted in either of these environments, try to compensate by frequent watering, shading, and protection from winds, particularly those coming from the ocean. At any site, māmaki needs moist to wet soil surrounding its roots. The soil can be lava/cinder, clay, or organic dominant; we have never tried to grow māmaki in sand or coralline soils. However, this soil must also drain water well to discourage root rot caused by fungi or bacteria.
Under optimum conditions, māmaki grows fast and matures quickly; it's not unusual to have a shrub six (2 m) feet tall producing lots and lots of fruits in less than a year. However, it has also been our experience that māmaki (in the landscape) don't live very long — about three to five years — before showing signs of senescence (e.g., dying branches, reduced growth) and dying. Sometimes this death is slow with a gradual loss of branches and leaves, and sometimes it is quick (i.e., in days or weeks). While it seems unlikely that māmaki are this short-lived in the wild, we suspect that their shorter life when cultivated is because of some pathogenic soil microbe that eventually overwhelms the plant's defenses. Alternatively, perhaps, cultivated conditions are just so optimal that the plant "burns itself out." Hopefully, as more and more people grow māmaki, we will have a better understanding of its lifecycle and how to prolong it. (Local māmaki farmers report they can get multiple leaf harvests for two to five years before the plants need to be replaced [Koher et al. 2023].)
Māmaki seems to benefit (e.g., better color and growth) from an application of a balanced controlled-release fertilizer with minor elements every six months or a monthly foliar feeding with an organic or inorganic water-soluble fertilizer diluted to ⅓ to ½ its recommended strength. Even without fertilizer, māmaki will often become top-heavy, causing it to tip over and uproot. Prevent this from happening by: avoiding a windy planting site, selective pruning to increase airflow through the plant, and supporting the plant with stakes and ties.
Regularly removing the growing tips of māmaki will encourage branching and new growth. Top branches can also be removed to keep leaves within reach for harvesting. However, avoid over-pruning or over-harvesting by not removing more than a quarter of your māmaki's leaves at one time. Afterward, do not prune or harvest for several weeks to give the plant time to recover.
Pests and Diseases
Māmaki can become infested by sap-sucking insects such as aphids, mealybugs, scale insects, spittlebugs, and thrips. These, in turn, can be farmed and protected by ants. Over-fertilized plants seem to be more prone to these infestations. Also, Chinese rose beetles, caterpillars, and grasshoppers will chew holes in māmaki leaves, making them unsightly but usually not adversely affecting the overall health of the plant, provided the damage is not severe. Young plants are sometimes quickly killed by an unidentified (fungal?) disease that causes the leaves and stems to quickly wilt and die. Refer to the Pests & Diseases page for treatments to control the above-mentioned pests — HOWEVER, if you intend to harvest māmaki leaves or fruits for consumption, use only the mildest of chemical treatments, such as insecticidal soaps and organic oils.