Like other hala pepe, Dracaena auwahiensis produces large clusters of yellow to orange tubular (perfect) flowers (photograph courtesy of Susan Fawcett CC BY-NC 4.0). These develop into bright red fleshy berries (see photograph below) as they ripen, turning to a dull purplish-brown before dropping to the ground (photograph courtesy of Forest & Kim Starr CC BY 3.0 US). The leaves of D. auwahiensis can vary quite a bit in length and width, as these two examples illustrate (photograph of long droopy leaves courtesy of Forest & Kim Starr CC BY 3.0 US; photograph of rare short curly leaves courtesy of Forest & Kim Starr CC BY 3.0 US). D. auwahiensis is probably the most tree-like of all the endemic Hawaiian Dracaena species (photograph courtesy of Forest & Kim Starr CC BY 3.0 US) and is certainly the largest I (Koebele) have ever seen (photograph of Kim Starr next to the base of an ancient hala pepe in Makawao, Maui, courtesy of Forest & Kim Starr CC BY 2.0).

Dracaena auwahiensis is probably the most commonly cultivated of all the endemic Hawaiian hala pepe. Here a young plant is already producing a multitude of colorful fruits; note moa (Psilotum nudum) growing at the base of this hala pepe (photograph courtesy of Forest & Kim Starr CC BY 3.0 US). Here a larger cultivated D. auwahiensis has multiple branches, each topped with a cluster of bright yellow-orange flowers (photograph courtesy of Forest & Kim Starr CC BY 2.0). D. auwahiensis has been planted extensively and successfully as part of the restoration of the ancient native dry forest at Auwahi, Maui (photograph courtesy of Forest & Kim Starr CC BY 3.0 US).

Growth Requirements

General 

    I (Koebele) have never had much success growing Dracaena auwahiensis (or D. konaensis) in the ground on O‘ahu compared to the O‘ahu endemics, D. forbesii and D. halapepe. They have always died within a couple of years (while some of my in-the-ground D. forbesii and D. halapepe are still alive today after nearly 20 and 30 years, respectively). This is in stark contrast to the success others have had growing D. auwahiensis, particularly people on Maui (see photographs above). Well, I have an untested hypothesis that might explain this discrepancy. Are there any researchers out there interested in testing it?

    In a pot, inside a shadehouse, all my Dracaena auwahiensis (and D. konaensis) did just fine. Because of my laziness, some would eventually become pot-bound, but none of them ever died in their pots. It was only after transplanting them into the ground — always rocky clay soil — did they begin to languish and eventually die. So, why did this happen? The air temperature, light level, and watering my in-the-ground plants experienced weren't much different from what they had experienced inside the shadehouse. No, the only big difference was the substrate! The plants went from cinder-rich media to clay-dominant soil. Similarly, one big environmental difference between hala pepe growing on Maui (and Hawai‘i Island) and O‘ahu is the soil: new lava-dominant substrate versus old (but often rocky) clay- or organic-dominant soil. What about the soil, specifically, could have killed my hala pepe? I don't know. Perhaps it was simply a difference in drainage, or maybe it was a difference in soil chemistry or differences in the microbial communities the two types of soil can support. I do know all my O‘ahu planting sites had a long history of human disturbance and use, suggesting they were likely hosting imported, naturalized, and possibly lethal microbes. 

    So, what am I trying to say? Well, if you live on Maui, you're probably okay putting your Dracaena auwahiensis in the ground, provided the substrate is lava-dominant and relatively virgin (i.e., does not have a history of post-contact agricultural or urban use). If not, you can always keep your hala pepe in a container, ideally with a cider-rich media; they do just fine in pots. Or, you can create a new and possibly safer soil environment for your hala pepe by planting it on a large mound of fresh cinder. If you live on O‘ahu, it's probably best if you stick with growing the two O‘ahu endemics, or, if you're willing to risk it, you can try planting a D. auwahiensis on a large mound of fresh cinders. 

    What has been your experience(s) growing Dracaena auwahiensis? Do they support my soil hypothesis or refute it? Please contact us at EickhoffandKoebele@gmail.com and let us know so we can improve this webpage and share your knowledge.

    With the above preface, here are my non-soil-related recommendations when growing Dracaena auwahiensis. Wild D. auwahiensis (as well as restoration plantings at Auwahi) seem to do just fine in sites exposed to direct sunlight for all or most of the day. However, wild seedlings are often found growing in the shade of their parent or other plants. Based on these observations, select a planting site that receives direct sunlight for most of the day, but also create a temporary shade for your young hala pepe, maybe for its first year in the ground.

    Water your new planting about once a week until its roots are established (i.e., a couple of months) and you see new growth. Then, try reducing your watering to once a month in hot, dry sites — less or no watering in places with more rainfall. Waterings should be long and deep rather than short showers. Overwatering can be deadly, and the soil around your plant should be surface dry most of the time.

    Based on the success of others, Dracaena auwahiensis appears to grow rather quickly compared to my experiences with D. forbesii and D. halapepe. D. auwahiensis also seems to begin flowering sooner than the other two species (see photograph above). However, if your hala pepe fails to grow or you are keeping it in a container, try applying a balanced controlled-release fertilizer once or twice a year. Alternatively, you can apply an organic or inorganic foliar fertilizer at ½ to ⅓ the recommended strength two to three times a year. It seems that at least some hala pepe species (e.g., D. konaensis) need more potassium than many other native Hawaiian plants (see Pests and Diseases below). Therefore, make sure your fertilizer contains a significant amount of potassium.

    Cultivated Dracaena auwahiensis show moderate heat and drought tolerance. However, based on where we see wild plants — cool moist uplands — it's probably best to avoid these stresses. Hala pepe branches are brittle and will break in high winds (or careless hands), so you should keep your plant in a semi-protected site. Fortunately, healthy plants usually recover from even major breaks (e.g., the top of a single-stemmed plant breaks off) and will put out new stem shoots from the remaining branch(es). Avoid pruning your hala pepe except to remove dead lower leaves or old fruit stems. Hala pepe bark and wood are soft. Therefore, it's a good idea to protect the base of your plant from trimmers and chewing pests with a wire cylinder, 2L plastic bottle, or other means.  

Pests and Diseases

    All of the endemic Hawaiian Dracaena can be a challenge to maintain in the landscape because of their shared above-ground pests and soil-borne diseases. Chewing pests such as cockroaches, snails and slugs, and rats and mice are always a serious and potentially lethal concern with hala pepe, even with large, mature plants. Therefore, inspect the base of your plant regularly since this is normally the first area attacked. Unfortunately, there is no universal defense against chewing pests, so refer to the Pests & Diseases page for the best way(s) to battle each of these pests.

    Occasionally, hala pepe are infested by scale insects. Refer to the Pests & Diseases page for ways to eliminate scale insects. While I have not seen this myself, Ethan Romanchak of Native Nursery, LCC, has reported that corn worms will attack the roots of D. auwahiensis [per. comm.].

    For the longest time, I incorrectly diagnosed the leaf spotting on the older leaves of hala pepe (see photographs below) as some type of fungal infection. Then I came across Scot Nelson's photographs on Flickr. Scot Nelson is a Plant Pathologist at the University of Hawai‘i at Mānoa, so I trust his diagnosis. Dr. Nelson states that these spots are a symptom of potassium deficiency. Therefore, the proper treatment if you see these spots is to apply a potassium-rich fertilizer to your hala pepe. Several suitable options are available for purchase online or at your local garden shop.

    Now, if you see leaf spotting on the newest leaves or if the center of the leaf crown starts to rot, then your hala pepe probably does have some type of fungal disease. This can be promoted by water getting trapped in the crown or between the leaves. To avoid this, water the soil, not the plant. If you use sprinklers in your landscape, make the necessary adjustments to avoid this watering mistake.

    Overwatering or poor drainage, resulting in constantly wet soil, can promote harmful soil-borne fungi and bacteria that can infect the base and roots of your hala pepe and kill it. Therefore, don't overwater, and keep the surface soil around your plant dry most of the time.

Special Features and Information

General

    Asparagaceae includes species that vary widely in their appearance and growth form but is based on the edible garden asparagus (Asparagus officinalis). The family has a cosmopolitan distribution, with species native to all continents except Antarctica. Its taxonomy has undergone several revisions, including some recent changes since 2000. Currently (2026), there are approximately 3,170 species within 126 genera in the family. Based primarily on recent molecular genetic research, members of the old Agavaceae (Agave family) such as the genus Dracaena, along with all the endemic Hawaiian species, were reorganized within Asparagaceae [WikipediA;Asparagaceae]. In Hawai‘i, the only native species within Asparagaceae are members of the genus Dracaena [Flora of the Hawaiian Islands].

    Currently (2026), there are seven recognized species of native Dracaena in the Hawaiian Islands, with each species limited in range to one or two islands [Flora of the Hawaiian Islands]. 

• Dracaena aurea — is a tree found in mesic forests on Kaua‘i. 

• Dracaena auwahiensis — is a tree found in dry and mesic forests on Moloka‘i and Maui.

• Dracaena fernaldii — is an endangered tree found in remnant dry forests on Lānaʻi.

• Dracaena forbesii — is an endangered tree found in dry and mesic forests on Oʻahu. 

• Dracaena halapepe — is a tree found in mesic forests on Oʻahu.

• Dracaena halemanuensis — is a recently classified species found on Kauaʻi.

• Dracaena konaensis — is an endangered tree found in dry forests on Hawaiʻi Island.

Hawaiian Name

    In Hawaiian, Pepe can mean "small," while Pēpē can mean "baby" [Pukui & Elbert 1986]. Therefore, it is generally believed that Hala pepe means "small or baby hala," hala (Pandanus tectorius) being a common and important plant to Hawaiians. Likely, it was the similarity in the shape of the two trees and their leaves, along with the observation that hala pepe trees and their leaves are generally smaller than those of hala, that led to this naming. Pepe can also mean "flat," which leads to an alternative explanation for the name proposed by Karl Magnacca: that the name refers to the flat leaves of hala pepe compared to the ridged leaves of hala. Halapepe, as one word, occasionally appears in the literature in reference to these plants. 

Etymology

    Dracaena is the Latinized form of the Greek word drakaina, meaning "female dragon," and likely is a reference to the dragon tree (with its red resinous sap), described by Carl Linnaeus, who assigned it to the new genus [WikipediA;Dracaena draco]. 

    The species name, auwahiensis, is named after Auwahi, a region in southeastern Maui, where this species can be found in remnant native dry forest. The area has been the site of intensive restoration efforts for decades by the landowner (‘Ulupalakua Ranch), scientists like Art Medeiros, and thousands of volunteers [Auwahi.org]. The suffix, -ensis, was added to geographically Latinize the name [A Grammatical Dictionary of Botanical Latin].